Wild Country Friend Review

Overview

The Wild Country Friend is the modern descendant of the cam that started the category in 1977. It is now a double-axle unit with hollow axles, raw polished lobes and an extendable 12mm Dyneema sling. At 75 g in the finger-size range covered here, it undercuts most of its direct rivals on weight. The trade-off is that the same sling that makes it so convenient gives up rated strength when it’s extended.

Key Specs

Spec	Detail
Type	Dual-axle spring-loaded camming device
Weight	75 g
Cam range	15.8–26.37 mm (0.62–1.04 in)
Cam angle	13.75°, constant
Axles	Dual, hollow
Cam surface	Unanodized, polished aluminum lobes
Sling	12mm Dyneema, extendable, with directional pull indicators
Rated strength	9 kN on the smallest sizes, 12 kN on larger sizes; 10 kN with the sling extended
Best for	Trad and alpine protection

Performance

Weight. Hollow axles are the headline. Wild Country says they are stiffer than solid ones and lighter too. One published comparison put the average saving at about 16 g per cam against the Black Diamond C4. Owners who switched from C4s confirm the difference is noticeable across a full rack, and a retailer reviewer called the Friend lighter than the 2019 C4. Testers at Gear Institute described the Friend as not the lightest cam in their roundup. Their point was that it carries more features than most heavier cams do. For an alpine rack where ounces add up, the Friend sits in the middle of the pack. The ultralight-leaning Zero Friend line weighs about the same in comparable sizes, at 76 g for the 0.5.

Stability. This is where the double-axle design earns its keep. Gear Institute’s testers rated the Friend the most stable cam in their field and in-house testing. They credited the double axle, the square-cut lobe teeth and the stiff axles. They also noted that the doubled sling, stitched loosely into the thumb loop, keeps the cam from walking when rope drag pulls on a carabiner. Wild Country’s constant 13.75° angle is shallower than the 17.6° on its Zero Friends. In practice, it gives a wider margin of holding power in flared or imperfect cracks. It also lets the unit expand across a generous range for its size.

Ergonomics. The floating trigger, recessed trigger bar, thumb loop and injection-molded thumb stop are well regarded. Gear Institute’s testers gave the Friend its top ergonomics score. The thumb loop is wide and easy to grab with a pumped hand. One owner who had preferred DMM cams switched over for the thumb loop and said the Friend’s sling design is less prone to snagging when extended.

Sling. Owners praise the extendable sling for cutting rope drag on wandering pitches and for reducing the number of quickdraws carried. The cost shows up in the rating. Outdoor Gear Lab flagged the loss of 2 kN of rated strength when the sling is extended, which is real, though the extended rating still sits at 10 kN.

Durability and care. The raw lobes bite rock well and are gentle on soft sandstone, which makes the Friend popular for desert cracks. Unanodized aluminum also shows grime quickly, and owners say the cams get dirty fast. A few buyers have reported that the thumb loop sleeve wears or breaks with use. Outdoor Gear Lab rated the Friend’s durability well overall.

Pros & Cons

Pros

• Hollow axles keep weight below the C4 class
• Double axle with a constant 13.75° angle gives top-tier stability
• Extendable Dyneema sling cuts rope drag and saves quickdraws
• Ergonomic trigger and thumb loop that work well with gloves or a pumped hand
• Wide, raw lobes grip well and are kind to soft rock

Cons

• Extending the sling lowers rated strength to 10 kN
• Raw aluminum lobes show dirt quickly
• Some owners report wear on the thumb loop sleeve
• Not the lightest cam available in its size class

Who Should Buy This

Trad climbers and alpine climbers who want a stable, comfortable, reasonably light cam with a built-in extendable sling will find it fits a rack well. It suits climbers who split a rack between brands and want a double-axle unit. It is also a good fit for anyone building out or doubling up a C4-based rack. Climbers chasing the absolute lowest weight, or who need very narrow placements in thin cracks, should look at the Zero Friend line or dedicated micro-cam designs instead.

Verdict

The Friend is a well-sorted, stable cam that justifies its place on a modern trad rack. It rewards climbers who value comfort and placement security over shaving the last few grams. Buy it for the handling and the sling, and accept the minor strength trade-off when extending.